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  • Twins Martina and Tricia Cronin from Kilnamartyra, Co Cork, stepped into an arena every bit as competitive as any professional sport when they opened their Square Table restaurant and though early indications that they are in their own way every bit as skilled and energetic as You Know Who it may be a while before their behaviour perplexes or polarises the nation.

    It may be a while too before they have the same earning capacity. Rather their ambition seems to be to satisfy and soothe and on the evening DW an I visited they realised those noble objectives splendidly. The Square Table is in a small, cut-stone building that was home to a more traditional restaurant for decades, one where the Full Irish was more or less the standard unit of currency and the Cronin twins have done a lot more than change the menu. They have made great use of relatively limited space and created a homely, snug dining room; it is one of those welcoming places where you feel as if you are eating in a family cocoon.

    What a splendid ball of taste and zest, almost Keano-edgy it set a high bar. Very good indeed, a wonderful use of the simplest things.

    THE 10 BEST Cheap Eats in Cork - TripAdvisor

    It was an excellent plate of fish, well cooked, seasoned and amplified by well chosen accompaniments. Even in a world where the implications of industrial-scale meat production and very high levels of meat consumption are ever more questioned this was a wonderful plate, even if the venison had not reached a — if I may propose a new adjective here — a roy of gaminess.

    It was really enjoyable and very easy to recommend and even easier to put on the repeat list. Dessert — we both chose the same one, there was not a crisis of restraint — Callebaut chocolate mousse, brownie, salt caramel ice cream and pecan nuts — and yes, it did taste every bit as good and rich as it reads.

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